From Val di Magra up to Montemarcello
Sipping history and traditions in Val di Magra up to Montemarcello.
A journey in the far East of Liguria, enjoying mountains, hills and a real river. A landscape rich in vineyards and picturesque villages where, among walls and castles, Roman and medieval atmospheres can be appreciated. From the hinterland to the truest Ligurian Sea, with rocky outlines and the green which meets formidable waves.
Duration
about 1 hours and 12 minutes
Lenght
34 km
Start from Sarzana along the SR 439 road heading south-east up to the SS 1 Aurelia road, to be followed until the crossroads on the left on via Borghetto, which goes up to the hills among olive trees and vineyards; the road becomes Via Montecchio, via Caprignano / SP 23 road and after 18 minutes and 8 km reaches the ridge on which Castelnuovo Magra is located, between the “Dantesque” castle and the church pointed towards the sea. Go down along Via Provinciale towards the very populated and cultivated plain of Luni.
Then follow the small stretch of SS 1 road on the left, then go on to the right towards a number of roads throughout the countryside: Via Alta Nuova and Via 25 Aprile on the left, via Alta on the right, then right onto the SP 432 road that crosses the Magra river, on the left on the SP 30 road which follows the course of the river towards its beautiful estuary, and then becomes the SP 29 road and climbs through the pines, with beautiful views of the Apuan Mountains and of the plain of Luni, towards the walled and quiet village of Montemarcello di Ameglia, which is 27 minutes and 15 km far from Castelnuovo.
The SP 29 road becomes now SP 28 road and continues north-west offering spectacular views over the Gulf of La Spezia, among oaks and pines up to Serra di Lerici; take now the SP 26 road, then turn left down Via Matteotti – at Cala – then via Fiascherino which leads, after 27 minutes and 12 km from Montemarcello, to the gorgeous and little village of Tellaro di Lerici and to its blue sea. A total of 1 hour and 12 minutes for 34 kilometres.
Castelnuovo Magra
Orange flag
Castenuovo Magra, a pious and genuine village.
Start from the elegant town of Sarzana following the SS 1 Aurelia road towards southeast up to the crossroads on the left into via Borghetto, which goes up to the hills among olives and vineyards and then becomes SP 23 road, reaching in 18 minutes and 8 km a panoramic ridge overlooking the sea and Versilia: Castelnuovo Magra is a village characterised by two important historic buildings. The Santa Maria Maddalena church hosts a Crucifixion attributed to Pieter Bruegel the Younger, while the suggestive Turris Magna of the castle of the Bishops of Luni is the place where Dante Alighieri sojourned in 1306. Embark now on a journey through time and its historical, cultural and religious events.
Castelnuovo Magra is also a stopover of the Via Francigena that, since the year 990, thanks to the bishop of Canterbury Sigeric, connects England with Rome. Furthermore, the trip brings up gastronomy as well. Don’t miss the opportunity to taste the “prosciutta castelnovese” made of the most tender part of the rear leg of the pork and the lard pâté, to be eaten fresh with a shred of honey and a glass of Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà. All these are dishes and wines representing a truly unique local cuisine. The Public Winery of Liguria and Lunigiana, in the heart of the DOC Colli di Luni, gives value and recognition to every sip taken.
A culinary tradition that is also celebrated in the “Cà Lunae” museum of rural culture of wine and in the genuine spring festivals featuring the castelnovina olive. In the end, go along Via Provinciale toward the plain of Luni; a series of roads reach the SP 432 road that crosses the Magra river, then turn left on the SP 30 road which follows the course of the river towards its beautiful estuary, and then becomes the SP 29 road and climbs through the pines, with beautiful views of the Apuan Mountains and of the plain of Luni, towards the walled and quiet village of Montemarcello di Ameglia, in 27 minutes and 15 km.
ART
Malaspina castle, Santa Maria Maddalena church, Crucifixion by Pieter Bruegel the Younger, “Cà Lunae” museum of the rural culture of wine, Multimedia museum of Vermentino wine.
FOOD AND WINE
Extra virgin castelnovina olive oil, prosciutta castelnovese and lard pâté, Vermentino and Rosso of the DOC Colli di Luni wines.
EVENTS
Oil festival.
WALKING ROUTES
Via Francigena, CAI paths.
Montemarcello di Ameglia
One of the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy
Montemarcello di Ameglia, ancient Roman Chapter.
From Castelnuovo Magra you get to Montemarcello after crossing the plain of Luni and the Magra river near its estuary, climbing among pine trees and the views of the nearby Apuan mountains. On an almost flat hill that separates the mouth of the Magra river from the Gulf of Spezia, with outlines both rustic and refined, here is Montemarcello. The ancient name, Mons Marcelli, was that of a Roman military camp dedicated to the consul Marcellus who, in 155 BC, defeated the Ligurians Apuans who inhabited these lands. A Roman origin, which can still be seen in its orthogonal streets, so little Ligurian. Walk around them and discover the old town, with its walls and the beautiful fifteenth-century San Pietro church.
The narrow streets and the area surrounding the lovely central square offer colourful houses and small gardens, loved by intellectuals like Indro Montanelli; spots of peace undoubtedly far from the crowds and the noise of sea summer vacation. Discover the landscape and its masterpieces – not only natural. Just outside the ancient walls, enjoy the Marrana Arteambientale park, an art gallery in the open air, then the Montemarcello-Magra Regional Park, that protects the valleys of the Vara and Magra rivers; then, on Mount Murlo, near the village, there is an interesting Botanical Garden. Please don’t leave Montemarcello without sampling its – now quite rare – binei figs, or the typical vegetable soup with pasta accompanied by a glass of Colli di Luni red wine.
The SP 29 – SP 28 road advances towards north-west with beautiful views of the Gulf of La Spezia, with oaks and pines up to Serra di Lerici; from here, take the SP 26 road, then turn left down Via Matteotti up to Via Fiascherino which, after 27 minutes and 12 km, leads to the little village of Tellaro di Lerici and its blue sea.
ART
City walls, San Pietro church, Punta Corvo monastery.
FOOD AND WINE
Binei figs, tagiain a menestron (vegetal soup with pasta), Colli di Luni Vermentino DOC wine.
NATURE
Montemarcello-Magra Regional Park and Botanical Garden, Punta Bianca.
WALKING ROUTES
Paths to Punta Bianca, Punta Corvo, Bocca di Magra and Ameglia.
Tellaro di Lerici
One of the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy
Tellaro di Lerici, small seaside jewel.
Reach the village from Montemarcello, going along provincial roads (SP 29-28-26 roads) offering beautiful views of the Gulf of La Spezia, one of the most beautiful bays in Italy. In one intimate corner of the Gulf lies a seaside village that preserves all the Ligurian flavour and style. Tellaro is a perfect place thanks to its location, its architectural forms and atmosphere; small, colourful, rocky, in full harmony with the blue of water and sky. Go down the alleys that open out in a tiny harbour and then in the San Giorgio church, emerging from rocks and sea, with a pink pastel shade and wet by the spray of the waves. You’ll fall in love with this piece of paradise at first glance, and will love it forever, as the writers Mario Soldati, Attilio Bertolucci and David H. Lawrence did. Its essence can be discovered at its best during the less touristy and less crowded months, when the sea and the old stone houses become the true protagonists of the day. An extraordinary moment, where the waves lapping on the rocks are the only sound you can hear. After the tour of the village, enjoy the true flavours of this land: a taste of local fresh focaccia or a plate of octopus “alla tellarese” accompanied by a glass of Vermentino dei Colli di Luni. Here, the octopus has also an historical value: actually, the legend goes that an overnight attack by Saracen pirates was foiled thanks to a curious octopus that pulled the bell rope of the church waking up the residents.
ART
The village, the oratory of Santa Maria in Selàa, the church of St. George.
FOOD AND WINE
Extra virgin olive oil from local olives, octopus “alla tellarese”, sweet focaccia.
EVENTS
Underwater Christmas, the Octopus Festival, the Palio of the Gulf of La Spezia.