Ventimiglia and Bordighera hinterland
The genuine lands and noble tastes of the Ventimiglia and Bordighera hinterland.
Discovering western Liguria, a land that is Liguria but also a bit of Provence, where dialects sound similar to those across the border and the gastronomy includes recipes and traditions from both sides of the border. A “rough and essential” landscape, between hills covered with olive trees, vineyards grown from rocky terrains and villages proud of their typical products and traditions.
Duration
about 1 hour and 52 minutes
Lenght
64 km
Depart from Ventimiglia heading north-west and down the SS 20 road of the Colle di Tenda that runs along the wide riverbed of the Roia river: after passing the village of Trucco, a series of tunnels leads to the junction on the right from which, on the left, a tortuous uphill road (via Matteotti) detaches. In less than 500 meters it reaches, after about 12 km and 15 minutes, one of the most beautiful “pays perchés” of western Liguria: Airole. To continue, you have to go back to the SS 20 road up to the Trucco valley to then take, on the left, the SP 92 road that will then become SP 70. It is a rather narrow and tortuous road that connects the lower val Roia with the val Nervia through an enchanting landscape made of forests and cultivated strips of land, with dry stone walls and olive groves. Once in the valley of the wild val Barbaira turn right on the SP 68 road and then on the SP 64 road that follows the Nervia stream in its course towards the sea, reaching Dolceacqua.
From Airole, this will take about 17 km and 35 minutes. After leaving the village loved by artists, the SP 64 road goes south towards the coast: in Camporosso Mare take the SS 1 Aurelia eastwards, to the left, and continue past Vallecrosia. In Bordighera, go upwards along via dei Colli and via Gen. V. Rossi, through an area with elegant 18th century villas immersed in luxurious gardens, then pass through the small stony village of Sasso di Bordighera. The SP 57 road runs along a panoramic ridge offering the beautiful view of hundreds of blooming mimosas in the lower valleys.
Finally, after 45 minutes and 24 km from Dolceacqua, you will get to the peculiar, elegant and beautiful Principality of Seborga. To go back to the coast, take the SP 57 road backwards until you find yourself, after 12 km and 20 minutes, back on the SS 1 Aurelia road in Bordighera.
Airole
Orange flag
Airole, a multi-ethnic village.
Departing from Ventimiglia and following the SS 20 road that goes up the Roia river valley between fields and tunnels, in 15 minutes you will reach Airole, a magnificent village which suddenly appears by the road and welcomes you with its typical stone houses. Here Dutch and German are spoken as much as Italian, together with the half Provençal dialect of the old inhabitants. Different cultures and traditions have joyfully coexisted for centuries here, and today they still tell the story of the value of diversity, without betraying their Ligurian nature. Looking around, the signs of this wealth are evident: a sundial in the church square, paintings on the houses walls, a Museum of Oil, many excursion paths climbing towards the ridges that head into France. The wonderful food and wine specialties of Airole: the maquis honey that grows on the steep hills behind the town and the rustic bread, known and appreciated even in the Riviera cities. Enjoy the renowned Roccese wine, a local red wine produced with the grapes of vineyards that grow “in trenches” on the harsh and sunny rocks of the hills around the village. The itinerary continues in a south-west direction towards Dolceacqua, that can be reached in about 35 minutes descending on the SS 20 road up to Trucco and then taking the SP 92, SP 70, SP 68, SP 64 roads in a stunning landscape of olives, cultivated strips and woods.
ART
Madonna delle Grazie sanctuary, Santi Giacomo e Filippo church, sighting towers.
TRADITIONS
Museum of Oil and Rural Civilization.
EVENTS
San Giovanni Bonfire, Gathering of the “Vespe”, Lavender Festival.
FOOD AND WINE
Honey, rustic bread, Roccese wine, galete and marieti, lavender.
SPORT
Mountain biking, trekking, trial, canyoning.
WALKING ROUTES
“Oil and salt roads” towards France and Alta Via dei Monti Liguri trekking path.
NATURE
Adventure park, donkey trail rides.
Dolceacqua
Orange flag
Dolceacqua, the village loved by artists.
Coming from Airole, following roads SS 20, SP 92, SP 70, SP 68, SP 64, you will get to Dolceacqua after about 35 minutes. The village, the pearl of the Val Nervia, has been the protagonist of many important historical events and was head of a small Marquisate ruled by the Genoese Doria family, and then by the Savoia family. Today there are still traces of these glories, like the majestic castle that overlooks the town and the stream. Discover its artistic richness and deep creative nature among the numerous and colourful art shops and workshops which preserve the ancient amanuensis techniques. Many artists of international fame live and work here: painters, wood carvers, sculptors, interior designers, window makers. The town centre is made up by two districts, Tera and Borgo, divided by the Nervia stream and connected by one of the most beautiful medieval bridges of Liguria, a masterpiece of lightness: the stone humpbacked bridge. On both sides of the stream, home of herons, you can taste the “michette”, a brioche-bread linked to an ancient local legend. Eat them with a glass of Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, a wine loved by kings, popes and emperors: it is no wonder that Dolceacqua is also known as the “City of wine”. To continue along the itinerary, follow the SP 64 road up to the coast; then, from Camporosso Mare the SS 1 Aurelia road reaches Bordighera, and from here the SP 57 road climbs along a panoramic ridge towards the village of Seborga, about 45 minutes from Dolceacqua.
ART
Doria Castle, “Monet” Medieval bridge, polyptych by Lodovico Brea, “Gombo” (olive oil mill) monument, works by Raimondo “Barbadirame”, Morscio art gallery, Visionarium, Small Museum of historical miniatures.
HANDICRAFTS
Art studios and ateliers.
EVENTS
San Sebastiano Festival, Michetta Festival.
FOOD AND WINE
Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, DCO michetta, and DOP extra virgin olive oil.
WALKING ROUTES
Alta Via dei Monti Liguri and trails connected to it.
WEBSITES
Seborga
Orange Flag, one of the most beautiful villages of Italy.
Seborga, its Serene Highness.
Roads SP 64, SS1 Aurelia and panoramic road SP 57, from which in winter we can admire the blooming mimosa, will take you from Dolceacqua through Bordighera to the “border lands”, where the white-azure flags flutter in the wind along the road over the ridge and welcome you to the ancient Principality of Seborga. A solemn entrance in the history of the “Principality” that will bring you directly to the past, back to 1079. Here you will not find the skyscrapers and Ferrari cars of the nearby Principality of Monaco, but rather a beautiful and discreet village on the hills of Liguria, with steep and narrow streets, squares and stone houses. Style is ever present in the beautiful noble palaces, between the gates of the city walls, the rich baroque churches, the refined art galleries and the authentic artisan shops. Even the nature that frames it seems to have a certain aesthetic refinement, landscape compositions of the Liguria Alps and the French Riviera. Inspirations continue at the table, with the local tastes of a cuisine that is rustic yet refined and offers dishes like the Liguria style rabbit, cooked with taggiasca olives, pine nuts, nuts, local wine, taggiasca extra olive oil and the aroma of the herbs of the fields. Give a touch of added value to such delicacies with a glass of fine Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC wine, better yet if it hails from the vineyards of val Verbone. To end the itinerary, take the SP 57 road backwards until you find yourself, after 12 km and 20 minutes, back on the SS 1 Aurelia road in Bordighera.
ART
San Martino church, “Palace” of the Monks with the mint, Exhibition of musical instruments, Ancient Principality mintmMuseum.
TRADITIONS
“Principato di Seborga” Chamber Orchestra.
EVENTS
San Sebastiano Festival, Michetta Festival.
FOOD AND WINE
Liguria style rabbit, DOP extra virgin olive oil, black tomato.
HANDICRAFTS
Village art shops, mimosa and “seborghina”broom plants.