The Albenga and Borghetto Santo Spirito inlands
From the Middle Ages to the light of the sea in the Albenga and Borghetto Santo Spirito inlands.
An itinerary to discover the Albenga inland, one of the most important and best preserved walled villages in Liguria. You will discover places that are living pages of ancient history, framed by seaside and mountain landscapes that hold wonderful surprises. Here, architecture tells the tale of never forgotten passions and traditions, which continue to exist between faith, popular fairs and the pleasures of good cuisine.
Duration
About 1 hours e 30 minutes
Lenght
53 km
Leaving from Albenga, a tiny capital representative of the history and culture of the Roman and Medieval ages, head to the inland along the SP 582 road of Colle di San Bernardo among the fields, orchards, nurseries and olive groves of Piana di Albenga, following the path of the Neva creek. After the walled village of Cisano sul Neva, in Martinetto, turn left and climb towards the “Ligurian Dolomites” in val Pennavaire along the SP 14 road, up to the “telematics Medieval village” of Colletta di Castelbianco, after 25 minutes and 17 km.
Descending from Colletta down to Martinetto, take the SP 582 road again due north-west all the way to another splendid walled village with arcades and castle: Zuccarello, an ancient capital of a Marquisate, after 16 minutes and 11 km. Another stretch along the SP 582 road will lead to the Alpine ridges of the upper val Neva; turning right on the SP 44 road, after 14 minutes and 16 km you will reach the rocky, severe yet charming village of Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena perched under its castle.
The SP 44 road goes back down among woods and olive groves towards Balestrino, becoming the SP 34 road and merging into the SP 1 road after 30 minutes and 15 km of travel, reaching Toirano with its caves, gumbi, alleys, and murals. It only takes 7 minutes and 4 km to descend along the wide coastal plain of the Varatella creek, to reach the SS1 Aurelia road and the beaches of Borghetto Santo Spirito. This itinerary takes 1 hour and 30 minutes, for a total of 53 Km.
Colletta di Castelbianco
One of the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy
Colletta di Castelbianco, a village between past and future.
Leave from Albenga; the SP 582 Colle di San Bernardo road, crossing fields, orchards, nurseries and olive groves, reaches the villages of Cisano sul Neva and Martinetto, where it turns heading towards the “Ligurian Dolomites” of val Pennavaire along road SP 14. After 25 minutes and 17 km you will be surrounded by the mountains yet very close to the sea: “A bridge between past and future”, as a Castelbianco quote says. A “past” written on the vertical rocks just like the actual Alps, in the caves, between ancient villages and arched stone bridges. A future that perfectly expresses itself in the “telematic Medieval village” of Colletta, a cluster of beautiful houses in gray stone with alleys, arches and short staircases, rescued from abandonment and restored to maintain its original style but creating modern buildings connected through an advanced telematics network. Discover a place that surprises for its double nature, the strong connection with traditions and the desire to reinvent itself.
The common denominator of this lifestyle is the peace and tranquillity that can be enjoyed here, an invitation to “take your time” and enjoy the gifts of the earth and traditions, such as the famous Castelbianco cherries or the rabbit a la castelbianchese, accompanied by a good glass of Pigato DOC di Albenga wine.
Then head back to Martinetto where the SP 582 road due north-west leads to a fantastic walled village with arcades and a castle: Zuccarello, the ancient capital of the marquisate, reachable after 16 minutes and 11 km.
ART
The ancient and restored stone village.
FOOD AND WINE
Castelbianco cherries, DOP extra virgin olive oil, borage ravioli with tuccu sauce, truffle fondue, rabbit a la castelbianchese.
WALKING ROUTES
Alta Via dei Monti Liguri trekking path and related trails.
SPORT
Free climbing, mountain biking.
NATURE
“Dolomites” of the upper val Pennavaire.
Zuccarello
One of the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy
Zuccarello, a “V.I.P.” of history.
This village can be reached by descending from Colletta di Castelbianco in fifteen minutes and 11 km of travel along the SP 14 and SP 582 roads. Once the capital of the fief of marquis Del Carretto, nowadays Zuccarello still expresses a proud and sober spirit. Its walls are a distinguishing trait, powerful “arms” that protect a village that reveals itself little by little in a charming journey through time back to the 15th century. Stroll under the two rows of low arcades that have remained almost untouched in six hundred years, then stop and admire the beautiful “Roman” bridge, celebrated on the cover of the famous Time magazine. There are other “celebrities” of history that await you.
Are you familiar with the tomb of Ilaria Del Carretto in the cathedral of Lucca, a masterpiece by Jacopo della Quercia? Here is the thing: Ilaria was born here. She was the daughter of the marquis of Zuccarello; in 1403 she was married very young to Paolo Guinigi and unfortunately she died when giving birth two years later. She is remembered with a statue, a Medieval festival and a hiking itinerary that connects Zuccarello to Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena through orchards, meadows, olive groves, chestnut trees and flowers. It is an invitation to discover landscapes that will conquer any visitor’s heart and flavours that could not be forgotten: veggie tarts, an excellent Vermentino DOC Riviera di Ponente wine or a tasting of “rocche”, a dry sweet typical of the village.
Now another stretch of the SP 582 road will lead to the Alpine peaks and then, turning right, to the SP 44 road to climb, after 14 minutes and 16 km, all the way to the rocky and charming village of Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena.
ART
Walled village with arcades, doors and towers, Del Carretto castle, Romanic bridge.
FOOD AND WINE
Rocche di Zuccarello (dry sweet).
EVENTS
Medieval festival, Quinzio Delfino theatre.
WALKING ROUTES
Ilaria’s trail, Poggio Grande path, Valle Auzza observatory.
Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena
Orange Flag, One of the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy
Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena, the castle on the rock.
The SP 582 road climbs from Zuccarello towards the Alpine ridges of Val Neva; turning right on the SP 44 road, after 14 minutes and 16 km you will reach a village under the sky and open to breathtaking panoramas: Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena is a village that appears from the top like a nest of majestic and solitary birds of prey.
A true jewel of the Liguria hinterland, nestled among the gray rock mountains and the uniform green of the forests. Listen to its history as you walk to its discovery along a series of alleys that lead to the Medieval castle: the background is that of a fief owned by the families Clavesana and Del Carretto that left unmistakable signs of their power. Look at it from the top: it appears as a marvellous maze of roofs and terraces. An urban labyrinth that reveals traditions and passions still alive and heartfelt.
During the Summer, historical re-enactments bring back to life the Medieval atmospheres with games and folklore: visitors can enjoy some typical dishes such as snails and savoury tarts with rice and vegetables. The SP 44 road descends between the woods and olive groves of Balestrino, becoming the SP 34 road and merging into the SP 1 road. After 30 minutes and 15 km, it reaches Toirano with its caves, gumbi, alleys and murals
ART
Clavesana castle, historical village alleys, ancient trades museum.
EVENTS
Medieval festivals.
FOOD AND WINE
Snails, veggie tarts, aromatic herbs, borage raviolini, rabbit a la steccadò, apple fritters, “primo roggio” extra virgin olive oil.
Toirano
Orange flag
Toirano, caves and gunbi.
From Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena, the provincial road numbered 44, 34 and 1 descends between woods and olive groves, going past Balestrino and its castle; after 30 minutes and 15 km it reaches a village full of ancient history. First, there were the caves, inhabited by Paleolitic age cavemen and bears, which then became a village destined to make history.
Toirano awaits you and will surprise you with its famous caves, charming and ancient entrances in the ground where legends and religious traditions are kept, such as the one of the Bàsura (Witch) with the “cemetery of the bears” and the Santa Lucia cave with the sanctuary carved in the rock. Beside these unique paths, there are signs of civilizations that in the past lived and loved the village, from the Ligurians to the Romans all the way to the Byzantines. A village that still today conveys an intact Medieval atmosphere, with its gates, towered houses, palaces, colourful alleys, main tower, church and three-arch bridge.
Chapters of history that express themselves through nature, century – old olive groves and the famous gunbi, that is oil mills, driven by water or donkeys. The passion for oil has not been forgotten: every year it is celebrated with passion and a range of exquisite products such as the michettin (a fried bread of sorts), sbirulini (bacon-covered breadsticks), peaches with Pigato wine, San Pietro focaccia and orange wine, a wine fermented with the rinds of oranges. Finally, in 7 minutes and after 4 km, you can descend along the wide coastal plain of the Varatella creek down to the SS1 Aurelia road and the Borghetto Santo Spirito beaches.
ART
San Martino church, Giaire bridge, city gates, 20th century murals, Santa Lucia mountain shrine, San Pietro dei Monti abbey.
TRADITIONS
Ethnographic museum of Val Varatella.
EVENTS
Gunbi festival.
FOOD AND WINE
DOP extra virgin olive oil, orange wine, farinata, michettin, San Pietro focaccia, peaches with Pigato wine.
NATURE
Toirano, val Varatella caves.